On Christmas Eve we went up to the little center plaza in our burb. They did a fabulous light show on the surrounding buildings. It was quite impressive. But there was NO ONE around! This flippin' Covid is keeping everyone inside yet again. Christmas was here with MIL and an American friend of mine trapped here for the holidays. If I must say so myself it was a mighty fine dinner. The 26th the three of us took the train up to Aosta, a city of about 35,000 under Mont Blanc. Cross those mountains and you find yourself in France. Chamonix to be exact. We were hoping for more snow but alas times they are a changing. There is a small Christmas market near the Roman ruins and a lovely old pedestrian shopping center. When the sun dropped behing the mountains, the lights came on. It was charming.

Last night we went into Torino to see the Christmas lights with Grace. Again it was very pretty and finally we saw people. But then we felt paranoid and started walking the smaller side streets to avoid the crowds. Geesh.

Next on the list of artery blocking meals is New Years Eve. We'll be going to our friend Riccardo's place in the wine region. I'm stuffing my pjs in my bag just in case. We are together and healthy. No complaints. Happy New Year all! xxoo me

Check out this guy! We took MIL out for lunch last Sunday to celebrate her Saint's Day. This cheery gentleman was playing out front of the restaurant. The food and drink were superior but I can no longer imbibe during the day. Went to bed at 5pm and stayed there until the next morning.... xxoo me

Once upon a time there were 3 old friends. They had know each other for more than 30 years and had matured together from bright young lasses to retired gals. Many jokes about aging were made along the way with the exchange of funny greeting cards at every birthday and silly videos on group chats. One evening the 3 gals got together to celebrate yet another birthday. There was much cheer and all went well until the hour of dessert. The hostess of this particular evening had made a lovely seasonal spice cake in honor of the occasion. She presented the cake, generously covered with a layer of white as snow powered sugar. Or so she thought. After the first mouthful all 3 gals stopped and 2 looked at the hostess with a question in their, now watering, eyes. WTF? An investigation was made and revealed that the cook had erroneously used powered yeast instead of powered sugar to ice her lovely cake. Much hilarity ensued. The 2 guests stepped out onto the terrace to have a smoke while the hostess picked up the pieces of her broken heart and tried unsuccessfully to remover the top layer of the cake for future consumption. An hour or so later, the evening came to an end and the guests prepared to leave. Guest #1 said, "where did I leave my cigarettes? ", Guest #2 said "where is my other tupperware?". All 3 wandered in and out and around for some time until the cigarettes were discovered on the terrace where #1 had checked and rechecked and the tupperware was found inside the bag that #2 had held in her hand the whole time. A sad but true story. The Italian government has just extended the "State of Emergency" that we have been under since Covid hit. They have now taken it past the constitutionally permitted 2 years. Many Italians, the hubby included, are up in arms and saying we are heading into a dictatorship. There are many elderly still alive who lived through Mussolini's realm. But those were other times when Italy was a country of impoverished and uneducated people. I think the likelihood of the folks I know putting up with too much enforcement on the goverment's part is slim to nil. They already forge fake test results, fake Green Passes, many don't wear masks. Who hasn't read about the guy with the fake arm trying to get his vaccine? Italians are not rule followers. But it's a scary thought none the less. It's almost Christmas and another lockdown is looming but at least we are all together here this year. On Christmas Eve we're taking the train up to Aosta at the base of Mont Blanc to visit it's famous Christmas market and to see some snow. (Our once a year snowfall is now a mere frozen lump conveniently right outside the terrace door, well places for slipping and sliding whilst trying to feed the GD birds). xxoo me

The 200 pound mass of palid teenaged flesh that lives above us is clomping around in cleats as he prepares to go play rugby. For some strange reason, his mother tells him put on his shoes at home as opposed to the field. Consequently every time he has practice we hear him upstairs, coming down the stairs, going back up the stairs because he forgot something, coming back down the stairs, possibly going back up the stairs because he likes the sound the cleats make on the marble floors, back down the stairs and into the underground garages. Then a few hours later we hear him clop back up again. It sounds like a well shod horse going up and down. Speaking of our wacko neighbors, the other day when he was heading out his mother made this comment about his outfit. "Why do you continue to perpetrate these chromatic errors in your dressing style?" They are the most well spoken weirdos. I'm on a diet to control my acid reflux. The no-nos are basically my weekly shopping list. Wine, tomatoes, spice, chocolate, cheese... Does my body not realise that it lives in ITALY for chrissakes? I'm supposed to keep this up for a couple weeks and then slowly reintroduce stuff one at a time to see what really gives me problems. A couple weeks! AHAHAHAHAHAHA! Looking into meds. More cheery news. We had booked a few days in the Alto Adige for after Christmas. We wanted to visit the famous Christmas markets, drink some mulled wine, eat a lot. The Alto Adige is the German speaking region of Italy that borders Austria. Well Austria just went into lockdown and the Alto Adige is on high alert. We cancelled our plans. Weeks later... I never finished this nor posted it. Oh well. We are having our first snow! It's very pretty but won't last long. The flakes are already the size of quarters and will soon be rain. Italy is in pandemic mood. We've already been obliged to have a green pass (proff of vaccine or negative tests) to enter in a multitude of places. Masks are required indoors and many shops are limiting the number of customers at one time. Now that numbers are climbing in other parts of Europe, tho here not, the government is inforcing a "Super Green Pass". Now the pass is only for the vaccinated, (no more negative tests), and the vaccines are valid for only 9 months. I recieved notification this morning that my Green Pass will expire February 11th. This is getting ridiculous. Boosters are out there and available but I'm going to wait til after the holidays. Maybe they'll have discovered a cure by then... I went to a Steve McCurry show called "Animals" on Sunday with friends. He is amazing. It was doubly wonderful because it was located in one of the royal palaces outside of the city called Stupinigi. It was one a "hunting lodge". The enitre population of Boothbay Harbour could easily be housed in there. It's massive.

Here I am with me Santy mask. Life goes plodding on in these "on-hold" times. Dinner tonight with MIL. Always a good excuse to eat!!! xxoo me

I've been slogging through the quagmire of my life as a broad abroad. Since I arrived a month ago I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to get my American passport renewed. After two methods of payment refused, (the consulate doesn't accept personal checks except their website says THEY DO), (the bank check was written out incorrectly - I didn't specify the MILAN consulate), and two trips to UPS to mail said bad checks, and endless emails back and forth, I'm heading up to Milan on the 8th to do this in person. I am taking a trunk load of documents with me so they cannot send me away. Wish me luck.

Autumn is upon us. Days are cool, gray and gloomy but there is a bit of rain after many, many months of drought. I've started my hibernation. I've dug out the woolies, started making soups, and have the desire to sleep for 12 hours when I'm not cuddled up under a blankie on the sofa. It takes a lot to get me outta the house in this weather. Food and wine work. GP has to bribe me with promises of a good bottle to get me to take a walk. It has to be a GOOD bottle. I'm not THAT easy.

MIL is beginning to lose her buttons. She's starting to fib. She was always the most truthful of people. She never had cause to lie as she has always believed herself to be right in all things. She is now starting, at 90, to doubt herself in some small matters and so fabricates stories as cover-ups. She shouldn't eat much cheese, denies she does, then buys (not exaggerating) 10+ varieties every time she goes to the supermarket. WE TAKE HER TO THE SUPERMARKET. WE SEE THE CHEESE! MIL enjoys the attention she gets when she goes to the doctor for check ups and blood tests so she invents reasons to go. She calls to order a range of blood tests she doesn't need beacause she just had them a month ago and tells us the doctor ordered them.. He did not. GP is contacted for all of her medical events. She waited til GP was in Germany on business to do it. As if he wouldn't find out. WE TAKE HER TO HER DOCTOR'S APPOINTMENTS! Tomorrow is market day. Let's see how it goes.

After years of thinking about it, I've joined The International Women's Club of Turin. So far I've only signed up for one activity, Mindfulness. How long has Mindfulness been on our radar? 5 years? 10 years? I have no idea. I thought I'd give it a try. After 2 weeks I have come to the conclusion that there is either NO POINT in my doing this or that I really, REALLY need it. There is no middle ground. Trying to control my thoughts is like playing pinball. My attention bounces all the hell all over the place and I'm trying to get it into a teeny hole and keep it there. The gal who runs the sessions is a German doctor with a PHD in something or another. I wasn't paying attention. She assigns us Mindfulness practice exercises that we should do every day. HA! Whether I am pondering the raisin I'm about to eat or contemplating my toes during my full body scan, I am fighting a full out battle in my head. I have the attention span of a gnat. I'm off to do my homework. Sob. xxoo me

I am not a happy camper. My garden did not fare well this summer. With temps over 100 for long stretches and rain a no show, only desert plants seem to thrive. Anyone who doesn't believe in global warming need only come here and see what has happened in Northern Italy. The heat and drought have literally cooked the landscape. Leaves are blackened or have already fallen from trees and bushes, plants that should grow well here have shrivelled up. The soil is like baby powder. I've cleared out the weeds, a grass referred to as couch grass but is like crab grass that is unkillable, and am assessing the damage. What has survived: The lavender in the ground but not in pots, The palms, 1 miserable broom eaten by snails, The virginia creeper because it thrives anywhere, My unfruitful olives, The groundcover referred to as creeping thyme but it's no creeping time I have ever seen. However it's fragrant, prolific and covered in small purple blooms in the spring. A keeper. What died: My clematis, 3 brooms even tho they are weed plants here, covering every hilltop in a profusion of yellow in May and June. An indigenous rose I searched high and low for as it's found only on old farmsteads and along ancient walls. It's almost impossible to kill once it settles in. Huh. Potted everything. And ferns and hellebores in my one deep shady, wet area. So sad. I'm going to the garden center to buy frickin' cactus. Oh and by they way, I had put down beautiful strips of thick grass sod this spring only to return to a patch of brown crab grass. Nope, not a happy camper at all. xxoo me

So our friend and neighbor Diego, actor of 3rd class horror films and highbrow theater that nobody sees, is doing a film in Torino with Franco Nero! He of Spaghetti Western fame! But what's more interesting is that Nero's long-time wife is Vanessa Redgrave, who is also in the film. But what is most surprising of all is that making an appearance is KEVIN SPACEY! Yes HIM! Well I never! Good thing Diego is large and hairy and looks more like Grizzly Adams than a pre-pubescent boy.

We spent the day at the sea again last Monday. Here is my new boat. Notice the SV on the side. Mine! Actually these are the fishing boats taken out at night to fish by lantern light. They return at dawn and set up their catch at a tiny beachside market. You have to be there early or it's all over. Even after all these years we have never managed to get to the beach early enough. The boats are registered in the largest community nearby, Savona. Thus the SV. Covid has come very close to home. MIL's upstairs neighbor, an 83 year old man she has known well for 12 years, died today. He took ill and was taken to the hospital a couple of weeks ago. No one knows how or where he became infected as he has spent the past year and a half closed in at home. MIL freaked a bit. The other 126,000 Italian deaths weren't worrying but when the parish priest tested positive she panicked and now with a neighbor it finally hits home. Geesh. After much drama I have my flights home scheduled and will be leaving here the 9th. Test before flying, 2 in London, quarantine, test before departure for the US, test once there. And I am fully vaccinated. This is absurd. xxoo me

My big gardening project from just a year ago has come to somewhat fruition. Some plants didn't make it. Others are taking their time about thriving. But still others are happy and healthy and it looks quite lovely in it's mini urban garden way.

I planned the garden all around spring and autumn bloomers as I am gone in the summer. Gian Piero shouldn't have to do more than a evening water to keep it going til I get back. Speaking of which, the EU is opening up. Travel should be available this summer with relatively little hassle. If you plan on visiting this side of the pond, bring your masks however. I don't see those going away for a looooong while. Meanwhile, MIL turned 89 a few days ago and we took her out for lunch. We had a lovely fish grill and a bottle of dry Rose'. I had to go home and sleep for 2 hours. She went to the supermarket. They are made of strong stuff the people of that generation.

Last week we spent a day at the sea. We took a 14 kilometer walk along the coast on sidewalks built above the beaches and connecting many of the towns along the Italian riviera. Oh how I've missed the water! Speaking of which, I'm beginning to look into returning to the States. As per my usual route, I want to pass through London to see the daughter but the UK is not being very cooperative! Apart from a test before entering and a test before leaving, one has to buy a 200 pound self-test packet to test oneself on the 4th and 8th day of your stay in the UK. Obviously during this time you have to quarantine. They make no exceptions for people who have been fully vaccinated! What's the point?! So if I DO go through London I'll be adding 200 Pounds onto my trip. Child.....$$$$$.....????? Sheeeeet. When will we return to "normal"? Ugh. xxoo me

We've just had a week of spring rains and all mother nature is bursting forth. Today was beautiful and sunny and we took a three hour walk up into the hills. There are so many roads and trails to explore. Farms are cheek by jowl with magnificient old houses surrounded by high stone walls with massive gates and big growly dogs. There is so much money in the real estate of these hills I wonder where all these folks come from. Torino is a city of a little over a million and there are hundreds, no thousands, of amazing properties. A lot is old money and the families do not necessarily even live here. Torino is the base of Italy's "nobility" so there are all sorts of mini castles and elegant hill homes that at one time were considered country houses for the hot summers. Now they are a mere 10 to 20 minutes from the city center.

The yellow fields are canola, the wildflowers wild salvia and daisies, the view the alps. On another note, I've gotten my first vaccine! I was called in on Friday for the 60-69 group and as am on the "cusp" got Pfiser instead of Astra Zeneca which they are giving most of the oldies. The site was hilarious. They've converted an old livestock market into a vaccination site. We all walked in under a sign that read "Mercato Bestiame". Seemed appropriate as we marched in obediently, masked and standing on painted lines on the floor. Just like sheep we were! I celebrated by stopping in the nearest greenhouse and buying some much not needed plants. After a long period of lethargy, this has instigated me and I am looking into flights home via London. This winter and spring have been truely a blur of too many hours on-line, too many bottles of wine. Oh my God I rhymed! I did it again! Geesh. xxoo me

As there is such a thing as spring in this here place, I have been enjoying it as best one can when you can't go any farther than your town line. Fortunately we've discovered our town line is much farther than we'd thought. What we had always assumed was a separate community, a lovely little hamlet in the hills, we've realized falls under our city's territory. We've been walking up through farmland and woods and bucolic residential areas we've never before visited. Up and down all those small roads and paths we just drove by without a thought back in our pre-covid days. Vaccines are still far off in the future for us here. They've just opened up to the over 70 crowd and that is a very big crowd indeedy in this old, old country. Italy is now considering buying vaccines from Russia. There is no way that I am getting a vaccine called Sputnik V for Chrissakes! Nuh uh. Not gonna happen. Americans are flying back to the States to get vaccinated. I'll probably do the same.

So the only exciting news we have around here is the change in status of the upstairs neighbors. Dad (the singer) has taken an apartment elsewhere and mom (the vacuumer) and son (the irritating arguer) are alone above us. Except they aren't. Dad still comes by late every afternoon, watches TV and has dinner with them. But he no longer sleeps on the fold-out couch. He left and took the bedroom furniture with him. Now she sleeps on the fold out couch. Her old bedroom seems to be empty. I think the parents are stealthily moving out and leaving their gruesome kid behind. They're hoping he won't notice. Easter has come and gone with a quiet little lunch here with MIL. She's still thriving and at 89 is just getting her second shot tomorrow. We have had to stop her from cooking for us. Her concept of well-done is shot and we can't eat another dish of charred green beans. Easter Monday, called "little Easter", is traditionally a day for picnics. We made do with a cook-out and lunch on the terrace with our neighbors in covid fashion. Separate tables. Waving distance. That's about as social as we get. Should anything happen I'll be back. If not, it means restrictions still in place and I ain't doing nuthin! xxoo me

Happy Valentine's Day!

48 days, 7 books, 3 big puzzles, 1 entire sitcom, (Schitt's Creek), mountains of Indian food and priceless solo time with me baby. I'm down to the final day of my London pandemic vacation. Tonight we are celebrating with good English beer and sticky toffee pudding. When I get back to Italy I'll start a diet by weaning myself off all the baked goods I've been living on. It's cold, spitting snow and wildly windy out there right now but spring has given signs of arriving. I saw buds and green sprouts galore on my walk in Regent's Park the other day. There are daffodils, snow drops and crocus out already in the sunnier spots. Soon I'll be able to see what survived the winter in my little renovated covid garden in Italy. Let's keep looking forward folks! xxoo me

Highgate Cemetery East is a bit larger, flat and laid out in a grid. It doesn't have the spooky aspect of the West side. What it does have though are vast wooded areas filled with tombstones. They look like so many little stone trees. It also has Karl Marx.

Here lies the big guy himself. His tomb is enormous.

There are many newish graves with odd or funny or horrible stones. Here the sculpture is grotesque.

The stone in front is an artist pallet, the one to the right, a Penguin book cover, is for "an avid reader"

This is my favorite. It's the grave of Patrick Caufield, Pop Artist. Look carefully at the stone. It says "dead". Perfect. xxoo me

I made it to Highgate Cemetery last Sunday. A cold and drizzily day, it was perfect for this creepy place. The cemetery is in two parts, Highgate Cemetery West and Highgate Cemetery East, straddling each side of Swain's Lane. The west side is the oldest and the most prestigious. Famous folks there include Michael Faraday and Christina Rossetti. The paths weave all around, up and over hills. There are catacombs and tunnels and chapels. It's very cool.

The entrance gate.

Elizabeth jackson was the first person buried in the cemetery. She died of cholera in 1854.

This guy Wombell owned traveling animal shows. The lion is Nero.

Thomas Sayers is buried here. He was a famouse bare-fisted boxer who had the largest funeral the cemetery has ever seen. The dog is Lion, his constant companion.

This is the grave of Queen Victoria's Horse Slaughterer!