neighbor kitty in front of apartments

view from front balcony

toward front gate

This innocent looking shop is the hub of riots and noontime terror.  This is one of the best bakeries around and people line up for ages to buy their daily bread, grissini (bread sticks), cookies and cakes.  We only go on special occasions as the lines make us crazy.  They must have more than 20 different types of bread and rolls, and if one is Italian you must get your bread fresh every morning, so each person takes flippin' forever to choose.  "Maybe that one there today.   No, no, one with the crust a little softer, darker, longer, shorter...."  But yesterday we caved and stopped by as today we have the Grandparents coming for Sunday lunch.  They had better like the damned bread!  It's actually the perfect day to be inside eating and drinking as autumn has come with a bang.  Fall has fallen.  Just a couple days ago it was still in the high 60's and low 70's in the daytime.  Today it is rainy and in the low 40's.  The sky is very dark and threatening and they say it may snow tonight!  I'm sure it's snowing in the mountains.  Here are some autumn pics. Off to eat!  xxoo me

It's the incongruities in Italy that get you.  How can a country have such high-tech, modern, well maintained highways and have parking lots where none of the automation works and they have to pay 2 people to help parkers insert tickets and figure out what cards are accepted.  God forbid these same workers actually stand in a booth and accept cash.  Today we literally got stuck in a parking lot.   Another example?  The government has a great recycling program.  You can recycle everything.  We have containers outside the gates of our apartments for glass, plastic (any), metal, paper, organic, garden refuse (different from organic), and standard trash (very little remains).  There are specific places to drop off meds (the pharmacies), batteries (the supermarkets), clothes and linens (also the supermarkets).  You just need to call and they will come haul away old furniture and appliances.  And yet the alleys and side roads are strewn with trash.  It is not as though people are saving money by throwing trash in the streets.  Every resident in this country pays a tax which covers the cost of all this trash collecting and recycling.  Then there are of course those strange bureaucratic quirks so prevalent here.  When you shop, in a market or a store, the cashier always rounds off the change in the customer's favor.  Small change is virtually useless.  But today GP had to buy a type of stamp that is used on official documents, the money for said stamp goes directly into government coffers.  The cost?  40 euro and 39 cents.  39 cents, not 40 or 35 but 39 cents.  Okie dokie.  And let's not forget their obsessive parenting that keeps kids at home til they're 40 but when it comes to education they throw up their hands and say "That's the teacher's job."  Italian parents adore and spoil their children.  They are carted everywhere, no sitters, and enormous quantities of money are spent on clothes, toys, holidays for offspring up til and well after attaining adulthood.  But as soon as those same kids are dropped off at the doors of their school it's all hands off.  Italian parents have zero involvement in their children's education.  Our school is about 60% local and 40% international but 99% of the parents who are involved with the PTA or volunteer as"Room Parents" or have any sort of interaction inside the school are international.  Italians are there for drop off and pick up.  According to the locals I know, this is typical.  Go figure.  xxoo me

The destination

Along the walk

Little rest

Look how tall she is!

Some of the rat bastard stairs( as Vicki would say)

More stairs.

The view is worth it.

                                            Just a few photos from the Sagra di San Michele.  Check out the Arch Angel Michael statue.  You can see the wings if the demon he is sending back to the underworld.

GP (front) and friends at park

Me and Alle. in front of winged victory

view of Torino

Yesterday, Sunday, GP and I started the day with a long walk with friends in the Parco di Rimembranza, a huge park at the top of one of the hills.  It's about a 15 minute drive from here, straight up.  The park is dedicated to the fallen soldiers from the first world war and it is a little disturbing to walk for miles along all the paths lined with stakes topped with the names of all those killed.  You start at the bottom of the park and wind around and around until you reach the top and a huge monument, a winged woman who is the "Light of Victory".  433,000 people were killed.  That is a lot of miles of walking.  After that walk we came home, picked up Grace (who had slept in) and headed out again to the Sagra di San Michele or the Shrine of Saint Michael.  It was an ancient monastery built into the rocks of a mountain top with a huge abbey built over it.  The original parts were built in the late 900's and the "new" part was added on in the 12th century.  It was dedicated to Archangel Michael, the slayer of demons, and there is a gigantic bronze statue of him/her (they said angels don't have genders) at the entrance.  The complex (as it is) is in the Valley of Susa about a half an hour from Torino in the lower Alps.  Our tour guide spoke like he had stones in his mouth and that, plus the echos in the huge chambers, made it impossible to understand a word he said.  Otherwise I'm sure I'd have oh so much more to recount.  After the early walk and the climb up to the abbey my calves were killing me.  I'll have more pictures when I can download them as the camera is in Rome with GP.  xxoo me

Sad, sad that I didn't have my camera with me today when I spent the morning, one more time, immersed in food.  I went with a friend to the largest market in Europe, which is here in Torino.  Though it is mostly food, there are also clothes, household goods, and trinkets.  We went for the food.  First to the covered section for meats, cheeses, breads.  Then to the outside stalls for fruits and vegetables.  I could have wandered for hours.  Wait!  I did wander for hours!  There are people of every ethnicity buying and selling their local products.  The noise is deafening and the smells are intoxicating.  We were so hungry after shopping that we had to stop in an outdoor cafe and eat.  It's still warm enough on sunny days (like today) to sit outside.  All in all a lovely way to spend a Saturday and we have decided to make it a bi-weekly event as every other Thursday I have off from school.  Next time I'll take my camera.  xxoo me

Busy but rather uneventful past few days.  Yesterday we had gorgeous Maine -like fall weather; breezy, sunny and cool.  Hoped it would be the same today for Grace's first day at tennis but Piemonte's gray won out.  It's a shame as the tennis club is high up in the hills.  The summer (clay) courts hang out over the edge of a precipice.  The hard outside courts are tucked into the side of a hill and the winter(covered) courts are in the woods.  It's kind of shabby but very summer campy with big pines and winding paths.  There is a small building with an office, changing rooms and a little bar that is only open in the summer.  And there are stone terraces looking out over the courts and the view.  I like it as it has an old-fashioned cozy feel to it. 

GP was in the states for a few days at a conference in DC.  He left with a list and came back with all sorts of goodies.  He brought back peanut butter and maple syrup, stridex and decaf, coffee filters and newspapers and an enormous bag of Reece's Cups.  Oh joy!  Tomorrow I'm going to try the maze that is South Torino in search of a friend's house.  She sent me directions but I'm giving myself a lot of extra time and using my phone's GPS system just in case.  If you never here from me again I'm undoubtedly stuck on one of the thousands of round-abouts they have built here in the past few years.  I'll be like "Charlie 'neath the streets of Boston.  He's the man that never returned."  xxoo me

Grace on top of church

View of Torino

Superga

Cows

Yesterday we were going to go to the sea for the day but silly me, I listened to the forecast and it said rain so we didn't go.  Well it didn't rain here and I doubt it rained there, but as it was we went back up to Superga, the large church up on a hilltop that once served as the burying place for the royals.  Had it been clearer there would have been an amazing view out over the city and to the mountains beyond.  Even with the hazy day it was something to see.  We took a cog-rail train up and back which was fun.  The walk up to the top of the church for a scenic look around was really steep and really long.  We just kept going around and around and around.  My calves are killing me today.  Those monks must have been in terrific shape.   We were so high up we were above the fog and mist that shroud the city this time of year.                                                                                                                                                                 Then today we spent the afternoon in Carignano, the grandparent's town, for their local festival celebrating Jerusalem Artichokes.  Yes you read that right.  Every community has festivals celebrating some local delicacy.  Around here towns celebrate asparagus, peppers, truffles, wines, even tripe.  Carignano gets a root that isn't even cultivated but picked by the side of the road.  It's like celebrating dandelion greens.  Having never tried them before, Grace and I shared a little tub of these nubby roots, sliced and deep fried.  They were actually pretty good with a taste somewhere between potatoes and nuts.  We were warned however that Jerusalem Artichokes have an unpleasant side effect.  They cause extreme gas.  I can vouch for that.  For some reason I don't understand though it was explained to me, at the end of the festival, a herd of enormous cows sporting even more enormous leather collars and bells and some festooned with white bows on their heads, are run through the town with everyone cheering them on.  We cheered too, I just don't know why.  They left behind a horrible mess that we had to navigate through to get back to my in-laws.    xxoo me              

Contemporary Art?  What a load of crap.  Today was a visit to the castle in Rivoli, a burb north west of the city towards the mountains.  In the old center there is a tremendous hill topped by a gorgeous baroque castle.  It was one of the many homes of the Sabaudi, the royals from this area.  The castle was restored a few years ago and very modern additions were built, all glass and metal, and it is used as a modern art museum and conference center.  Well the building, including the new additions, is fantastic and worth the visit.  The permanent and temporary art exhibitions are ridiculous.  The first room we entered with it's 15 foot ceilings, ornate gold mantel, and marble tiled floor, had a taxidermied horse suspended 10 feet off the ground, saddled and ready to go.  Grace nearly jumped out of her skin when we walked in.  Room after beautiful room were host to piles of old shoes, live trees in bags of leaves, photos of chairs (ugly chairs) and lots of people (ugly people).  Then there was my favorite.  A room painted dark turquoise with words stamped on the walls.  Words like"tortoise"," ice-cream"," macaw".  The best part?  The crow feathers sticking out from the walls horizontally.  Nice touch.  One room was wall papered with dry leaves and chicken wire.  Well as I said the building was fabulous and if it hadn't been such a foggy day the view would have been great.  After that was another trip to Ikea where we managed to spend 2 hours, buy $50.00 worth of merchandise, and not get one thing on our list.  GP is away for work so it's pizza and gelato for dinner.  xxoo me

I'm sick.  Thankfully every other Thursday I don't have to go in to work as I have no classes.  Today is that Thursday.  I'm flopped on the sofa looking out at a very grey day.  Unlike Maine where the expression is "if you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes", here the weather changes at a snail's pace.  The build up to a rainy day takes a week with progressively greyer and heavier skies.  What's surprising is the outrageous lack of accuracy the meteorologists have here.  You'd think with the speed the weather changes they'd get it right but alas no.  It should rain on and off the next few days but who knows.  We have a long weekend to fill so am trying to think of inside entertainment.  We need to do a little shopping at Ikea (small stuff like sheets) and I want to visit the castle/art museum in Rivoli.  The castle was renovated just a few years ago and is supposed to be fantastic.  It's in the outskirts of Torino near Ikea so can make a day of it tomorrow.  I am also going to look into the train/bus to the sea as feeling the need for open space.  These lush green hills and full cities leave me feeling a little claustrophobic.  Once in a while I want to look out and see nothing on the horizon.  Think I'll go take a nap.....  xxoo me

plowed fields and hazelnut trees

misty morning

farmers garden

hills

dales

my walk

very organized tree plantings

rather lonely

wow

I took a walk behind the school this morning after dropping Grace off.  It's hilly and farmy with a few very nice old villas thrown in. 

It's autumn in the province of Piemonte and with that comes fog and the fragrance of pig poop.  This is an agricultural area with farmland all around.  There are fields and orchards between all the small towns outside of the city.  It can be lovely but alas the odor isn't.  Some years ago Italy really started pushing farmers into organic production.  "Slow Food" is an Italian based organization that promotes locally grown foods, organic farming, and a healthier diet.  Obviously, as the name attests, "Fast Food" is their nemesis.  This move changed the way farmers fertilize their fields.  When I lived here 20 years ago there was never that much of a smell because they used chemical fertilizers.  Now they use pig poop.  Some days it is so bad you'd think a septic system had backed up.  Yuck.  The good side of all this is the wonderful, untainted fresh fruits and vegetables at the markets.  The weather is still warm.  70ish days and 60's at night.  We have a long weekend coming up and I'm hoping to take a bus to the sea for a day.  Even if it's not warm enough to swim it would be nice to walk along the seaside.  It gets a little claustrophobic away from the water. 

I started teaching the children at the school yesterday.  My job is to read aloud to them, teach them library skills, and encourage them to read.  At least that's what the agreement was.  I am paid hourly, and very little let me tell you, and I have already put in more than a month of volunteer hours helping set the library up.  I have no interest in or intention to do more than what I am being paid for at the moment.  They are trying to recruit me into the staff however, with extra responsibilities and time thrown in.  There is a teacher workshop this Friday and one of the deans asked me to be on his team to help improve the upper grade's "Extended Essay" results.  He was sure with my experience I'd be a great asset and wanted to be sure I felt involved.  I told him I wasn't coming in.  I think I may not be starting out on the right foot but what the heck.  xxoo me

Last night we went to a Canadian Thanksgiving.  It was much the same food as ours with an Italian flair.  Then this morning we went to the ISTathon which is an annual fund raiser for the school which is a walk/run followed by a BBQ.  We took the walk, about 3 miles, but skipped the BBQ to come home and do some housework, homework, and downtime.  The walk goes up in the hills and through the farmland behind the school.  It is a nice day, about 70 degrees, and the walk was lovely.  I think I'll start taking it a few times a week while waiting for Grace to finish soccer or whatever after school event she may have.  xxoo me

For those of you with little faith in Universal Medical Care listen to this.  We got in to see our doctor Monday evening, had our check-ups and now have our "exercise certificates".  For the certificates we did have to pay a little something as are not considered healthcare.  The doctor noticed that I have a slightly irregular heartbeat so sent me to a clinic where a cardiologist (not a technician who can't read it so has to send it to India to be looked at and all this takes a week or so and in that time you have started writing your will)  gave me a eco/sonogrammy thing.  I saw the specialist yesterday.  That is 3 days people.  The clinic is nearby, the wait was only 20 minutes, the doctor was great, the cost?  About 60 bucks.  Even with insurance, the deductible alone would have cost me twice, three times that?  I'm fine by the way should anyone be wondering.   There were of course all of those Italian idiosyncrasies.  The receptionist spent the entire time I was in the waiting room on her cellphone with a friend, answering the clinic's phone at the same time.  Two patient's got up to go into the doctor's office at the same time and got into a heated argument about who was next.  One of the doctor's was dressed like a tacky golfer in orangy-brown pants, a golf shirt and a brown and orange plaid sports jacket.  He was very tan.  Off to dinner at friend's place.  More wine, more food.  xxoo me

Living in an apartment certainly has it's down side.  Noisy neighbors,  little privacy, no room for spasmodic solo dancing that I occasionally have the urge to break into.  But there are some good things too.  Very little house to clean, cozy, easy to close up (safe-like).  We are slowly getting it put together.  I still have pics to put up, curtains to buy, rugs and side tables.  I have to go through GP's grandmother's china next time we go to his parent's house and I need some nice pots and pans. Apart from that there is little to do as there is so little space to fill.  We hope to go to an area towards the mountains on Saturday.  It's known for it's furniture builders and in fact there are tons of fine carpentry shops and antique shops.  That night we are invited to a Canadian Thanksgiving.  Their holiday is a month before ours and they have invited a few families they've met through the school to celebrate with them.  I'm going to have GP's parents over here in November.  Friday night is dinner and poker with friends, Sunday is a walk-a-thon, BBQ, fundraiser for the school and another weekend has flown.  xxoo me

Surprise, surprise, yesterday we spent the day eating.  Every town and city in Italy, and probably all Catholic countries, has a patron saint.  I don't know how they get assigned, but poor Saint Remigio got stuck with Carignano, GP's parent's town.  Their town's saint's day is Tuesday so celebrations have ensued.  Yesterday we drove the Grandparents out to the country to have a leisurely lunch at a place called Garibaldi.  The restaurant is in an old inn.  Ironically to celebrate Saint's Days one does not need to stay in their own town.  Fortunately.  We didn't.  Garibaldi is about 45 minutes out into the country in a small town squished between two very steep hills. The food was wonderful and abundant as was the wine.  I slept away the late afternoon.  We'll be going back to Carignano Tuesday night for the grand finale, fireworks.  Carignano is a town of about 10,000, that up till about 1970 was independent and rural.  It has since then been swallowed by Torino and it's ever expanding "burbs".  It's become a bedroom community where everyone is either old and retired or young and working in the city.  It was never an attractive town and is now dying too.  There are new apartment buildings going up but the old shops and businesses of the center are leaving as folks do most of their shopping in Torino and the new malls.  To add to this, Carignano had the ugliest building I have ever seen smack dab in the middle of town.  At one time the town was built around a textile factory that made wool fabric.  The place closed in the 70's and the building remained empty for 20+ years.  Then someone decided that it should be renovated and used for the Town Hall and the new trade school.  Unfortunately, they made the fatal mistake of hiring some famous architect that covered the place with white and turquoise and orange tiles.  It looks like a giant french public bathroom.  Something you'd see in the Parisian Underground.  Hideous does not do it justice.  It's heart stopping, brings tears to your eyes, and I'm sure has shortened my life by a few minutes. I dare not even send pictures for fear of what it may do to you all.  Count yourselves lucky.  xxoo me